Route Map for Stok Kangri
Scaling at a splendid 6153m, Stok Kangri is a serious challenge. Although at such an impressive height, it is not a technical climb and in season requires no advanced mountaineering equipment. The most important aspect while trying to summit any high altitude peak, is to acclimatize properly. A lot of healthy trekkers, who try to scale the mountain, inevitably fall prey of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) if the body does not get adjusted to the height.
We were not worried about the acclimatization part since we have been exploring around Ladakh for over 2 months. It was on a random spur of the moment decision that we, decided to summit Stok Kangri before heading back to civilisation. So four of us – Myself, Karan, Jaspreet and Lobsang (a local Ladakhi friend), started the trek on 31st July.
The Gang
On the first day, we began the trek starting from Zing Chen village (3800mts) which is a bit unconventional route seldom taken by other trekkers. Those who do take this path, camp at Rumbak village (4050mts) just 3 hours from the starting point. Ideally this would be a good thing to do as it is not good to exert yourself on the very first day. But we thought we were the machos of the mountains and decided to skip the first camp at Rumbak since we reached by 1230hrs. We did not want to relax and waste a day. Anyway the next campsite (Mankarmo) was “just 5 hours away” according to the local people. But we did not realise that when a local pahadi says 5 hours, it usually means least 10 hours!
Jaspreet had a hard time keeping up as she started having blisters under her foot. Karan would walk up ahead of us and stop to rest, sit down, lay his back for a bit, adjust his backpack for comfortable support while waiting and immediately start snoring and even explain to us what he dreamt during that 10 minutes gap. 
While I took my own pace, stopping at intervals to take pictures in between, Lobsang, the pahadi guy, would run up and down two times.
The local mountain boy
By the time we reached Stok La – a cruel steep pass at 4900mts, it was getting dark at 1830 hrs and we were completely drained of our energy.
Out of 4, only 3 had head torch (a little ill prepared, yes. I was carrying mine though). Then one new torch just died. So we were left with 2. We started using our mobile torch. And the batteries started to die after using for more than 3 hours continuously. We still hadn’t reached that elusive campsite and we were in total darkness when the moon completely set behind the mountains.
It was almost 2330 hrs and we reached a dried water stream place from where the path was not visible anymore. Since we did not have a guide with us, we could not figure out the way further. So we decided to spend the night right there out in the open. We didn’t carry tents (for it would not be possible to carry all that weight) but we had our sleeping bags luckily or we’d be frozen Kulfis by morning. We found a small patch of uneven grass surface and decided to crash there. We found a water stream nearby and fetched that much required drinking water. All we had was a small quantity of dry fruits and some energy bars and slept out in the open.
Starry sky on a tentless night
That night, I had the best view of our bright starry universe! Not a single cloud in the sky. Due to my weird sleeping position and extreme cold, I woke up several times during the night but felt so surreal seeing those stars every single time! Although I didn’t sleep well, it was the best night of the trek.
So our second day began by scouting for the path to the Mankarmo Campsite (4350m). Our ladakhi friend, went ahead and found the route for us. After another 2 hours of hiking, we finally made it to the camp and had sumptuous breakfast. Then we again decided to move further to the next campsite, which is the base camp for the Stok Kangri. It was a grueling long hike with steady ascent all throughout. We encountered several shy wild marmots on our way – unlike the marmots near Pangong Lake, which are brave enough to pose for selfies with you. The water streams in between were a boon to us as we were getting dehydrated very often. We finally made it to the base camp (at 5000mts) well before sunset today.
Mankarmo Camp
We got ourselves respective tents from the campsite set up at there by Ladakh Mitra. They run the campsite for around 4 months during the trekking season. But they have to reach the base camp with all the equipment before the starting of the season and set up everything for the trekkers. They provide tents, food and also equipment on hire for those who are not carrying themselves. We were astonished by seeing several trekkers of all age groups and coming from different countries. We interacted with a few of them. Each one had a different story to tell. Each one fascinating. We met another group of 3 from South India who had come along with a guide. Even their schedule was to trek to summit the next day evening. We had early dinner and retired for the night.
View of Base Camp
Day three started out good with bright and clear skies. We went exploring the place for a bit in the morning, packed and kept our essentials ready for the most awaited night trek to the summit. Later in the day, we decided to go on an acclimatization hike where we gained around 200mts and while returning, the weather turned bad. The place was completely engulfed by clouds and it started drizzling. Everybody discussed that it would not be possible to go for summit that night with this kind of weather and forecast updates did not look promising. We got into our tents and started playing cards. Even during the dinner time, it was still raining. Again we got back to our cards.
The base camp kitchen
It is only when our friend got out of the tent at 2330hrs to return to her tent, we saw the other group with the guide were gearing up for the summit. The rain had stopped and the sky was clear. We were in absolutely no condition mentally to go on a freezing trek in the middle of the night. Had to summon a great deal of will power to make up our lazy minds and bodies to leave immediately so we can tag along with the guide. Jaspreet decided to stay back as her blisters had become quite bad.
So the D day started at midnight. We started off for the summit with torches along with another group, a total of 6 plus guide. No other person or group were attempting to summit that night. Although I have done several treks and hikes at night, this high altitude trek was next level experience. We’d look up constantly to check whether the weather was going to turn bad. But it was just mildly cloudy.
We were a good 3 hours (around half past 2) into the trek and after crossing the glacier region, the girl from another group started having symptoms of AMS. Just few minutes later, it started aggravating and there was no way she could go ahead and was in no condition to trek back by herself. The guide was in a fix. If he went back with her, rest of the members would not be able to summit. So our friend, Lobsang, volunteered to take her back to the base camp. He left with a heavy heart as he was the one most excited to summit. But determined to return soon.
So the remaining of us continued our journey upwards. As the dawn broke and when the sight around us became slightly clear, we could see where we were. We were climbing the steep shoulder with more than 60% inclination. Every step into the snow was a tedious task. But the view around us was insane! We would stop every 2 minutes to look around us. The majestic beauty of the towering snow covered mountains all around us, the depth of the wilderness from where we were struggling to stand and the play of morning colours in the sky – it was a mix emotions too tired to comprehend. I was all determined to reach the peak. But another one in the group was hit by light AMS. Since he was aware that one should not try to be a Gama in the land of Lama, he humbly said he wants to return by himself.
And then we were 3 with the guide. We reached the ridge by 0800 hrs and relaxed for a bit. It’s a sight I would never forget in my life.
Selfie at the top of the Shoulder
The summit was still not visible as we had to trek further up on the tricky narrow ridge. We left some behind some of the unwanted equipment, roped up and started maneuvering our walks on the brittle slippery rocks. Since the ankle would not be as flexible when you are wearing snow boots, it was rather difficult to balance yourself on the edge. My concern was the climb down through these slippery rocks. The last few steps before the summit was excruciating. But we finally made it to the top by 1030 hrs. Our guide had got us Son Papadi to celebrate the successful summit. We tied the colourful prayer flags that Lobsang had given us with strict instructions. We spent a few minutes in silence, just sitting and looking around slowly at the vast horizon and all the Zanskar and Karakoram ranges.
We could not stay there for very long for several reasons, one being the snow would become too soft to walk on once the sun is up and above. Most of the fatalities occur while climbing down as the risk is higher. The climb down from the ridge was pretty scary to be honest but we reached the point where we had left our extra things pretty quick. From there, at 1130 hrs I started pacing down the shoulder, sliding almost the entire stretch. I was pretty desperate to remove those darn show boots. The trek back to base camp seemed never ending although I was walking pretty briskly. I kept wondering whether we really walked so much on our way up or have I lost my way somehow. But I was down at base camp by 1330 hrs! It was only when I met a few people and when they started congratulating me, that I started feeling a sense of accomplishment, that I have achieved something. The Stok Kangri trek for me was only to explore a new place and experience something new. It was a unique experience as it was my highest summit yet.
We had a sumptuous lunch at the base camp. Met the 2 guys from the other group and we were glad to know they were well. All 4 of us packed our bags at base camp and left for Mankarmo Camp where we spent the night that day. Next day we started our journey back to Leh via Stok Village. En route we met a couple and their daughter of 8 years old from Pune who had started the trek the previous day. As we spoke, the young lady told us that she had completed her Everest base camp earlier that year and had done 3 other high altitude treks in the previous year! We left from there immediately. Reached Stok village by late noon and we were picked up by our friends to take us back to Leh. Had a very good night sleep that night.
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